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Home  »  A-Z Plant Index  »  Indoor Plants  »  How to Grow & Care for Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa)

How to Grow & Care for Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa)

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Gloxinia - Sinningia x hybrid
Gloxinia – Sinningia x hybrid

Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa hybrids) are prized indoor flowering plants known for their lush, velvety leaves and trumpet-shaped blossoms that appear in rich shades of purple, red, pink, and white.

Originally tropical perennials, most home gardeners treat them as short-lived indoor annuals for their showy blooms.

Compact and easy to display, Gloxinia make elegant potted gifts or centrepieces and can last several weeks in peak bloom when cared for well.

  • Quick Facts About Gloxinia
  • Planting Gloxinia
  • Ongoing Care for Gloxinia
  • Indoor Care Checklist
  • Propagation
  • Pests and Diseases
  • Gloxinia Varieties
  • Design Ideas
    • Growing From Seed

Quick Facts About Gloxinia

  • Botanical Name: Sinningia speciosa (hybrids)
  • Common Names: Gloxinia, Florist’s Gloxinia
  • Plant Type: Tuberous perennial (grown as an indoor annual in cool climates)
  • Climate Zones: Best in tropical to warm temperate areas (avoid frost)
  • Sun/Shade: Bright, indirect light
  • Growth Habit: Compact, spreading rosette
  • Height/Width: 15–30 cm tall × 20–25 cm wide
  • Flowering Time: Spring to early summer
  • Foliage: Soft, textured, dark green leaves
  • Flowers: Large, bell-shaped blooms in red, pink, purple, or white
  • Special Attributes: Vibrant indoor colour display; ideal for windowsills or warm conservatories

Planting Gloxinia

When to Plant:
Start seeds indoors from late winter to early spring.

Where to Plant:
Grow indoors in bright, filtered light — ideally near an east- or north-facing window. In tropical climates, Gloxinia can grow outdoors in a sheltered, warm, and humid position.

Soil:
Use a lightweight, free-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Add perlite for aeration and ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot.

Spacing:
Allow 15–20 cm between plants or grow one per small pot.

Container/Pots Suitability:
Excellent for indoor pots, decorative containers, or covered balconies. Choose shallow pots with drainage holes.

To keep them looking good for a long as possible try the following basic care steps.

  • Choose a bright position however not in direct sunlight.
  • Keep the temperature in a range from 15C to 25C.
  • Water from below and never water the leaves. This prevents marking and fungal problems.
  • Do not allow the soil to dry out, however also do not allow the soil to get wet and soggy.
  • Fertilise every week with 50% high phosphorus liquid fertiliser.

Ongoing Care for Gloxinia

Watering:
Keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged. Always water from below to avoid marking the leaves. Do not let the plant sit in standing water.

Fertiliser:
Feed weekly during flowering with a half-strength, high-phosphorus liquid fertiliser to promote extended blooming.

Pruning & Deadheading:
Remove spent flowers and yellowing leaves to keep plants tidy and prolong the display.

Overwintering:
In cooler climates, treat as an annual or allow the plant to die back naturally after flowering. Store the dormant corms in a dry, cool place over winter, then replant in spring.

Indoor Care Checklist

(Keep this handy summary near your plant for quick reference.)

  • Light: Bright, indirect or filtered sunlight.
  • Temperature: 15 °C – 25 °C; avoid cold drafts.
  • Watering: Bottom‑water when topsoil feels slightly dry; never wet foliage.
  • Humidity: Moderately high; mist nearby air, not leaves.
  • Feeding: Half‑strength liquid fertiliser weekly while flowering.
  • Maintenance: Deadhead regularly; rotate plant for even growth.

You can grow Gloxinia outdoors, however they need a warm sheltered position. They are often grown outdoors in tropical to sub tropical zones. In cooler zones, overnight low temperatures can kill them.

Propagation

Gloxinia are most easily propagated from seed.

  1. Use a sterilised seed-starting mix to prevent damping off.
  2. Sprinkle seeds on the surface — do not cover them.
  3. Water from below and place trays in bright, indirect light or under grow lights.
  4. Germination occurs within 10–14 days.
  5. Once true leaves appear, transplant seedlings gently into small pots.

Older varieties can also be propagated from leaf cuttings by placing leaf sections in a light propagation mix until small tubers form.

Purple and White Gloxinia Flower
Purple and White Gloxinia Flower

Pests and Diseases

  • Common Issues: Damping off, fungal leaf spots, and rot caused by overwatering.
  • Prevention: Use sterilised potting mix, maintain airflow, and avoid wetting foliage.
  • Pests: Occasionally affected by aphids or thrips; treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil if needed.

Gloxinia Varieties

Two main types share the name “Gloxinia”:

  • Florists’ Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa hybrids): Soft-leaved, colourful flowering plants commonly sold indoors.
  • Hardy Gloxinia (Incarvillea delavayi): A true outdoor perennial, unrelated species suited to cooler climates.

Design Ideas

  • Display multiple plants together in shades of purple, pink, and white for a tropical colour accent.
  • Pair Gloxinia with foliage plants such as Calathea or African violet for mixed indoor groupings.
  • Use decorative ceramic pots to highlight the velvety foliage and upright blooms.

Growing From Seed

Most Gloxinia are propagated from seed, this is how we suggest you go about planting the seeds.

  1. The main issue with growing Gloxinia from seed is damping off, so a sterilised potting mix is recommended. You can buy this at good nurseries or make your own by placing normal potting mix on a tray in the oven for 1 hour at around 200C.
  2. The sterilised potting mix needs to be put into clean (sterilised) trays. Smooth of the surface gently and spread the seeds evenly on top.
  3. Do not cover the seeds with potting mix.
  4. Use a system of watering from beneath, this help prevent damping off.
  5. Seeds can be placed in a bright indirect light or beneath grow lights.
  6. The seeds should germinate within two weeks.
  7. The plants will form an underground corm and then proper leaves. You do need to wait until the true leaves have formed before transplanting.
  8. The corms and leaves need to be lifted gently from the propagating tray. Try using a fork for this. The idea is not to damage the corm or roots.
  9. Once transplanted into individual pots, keep them in good bright indirect light and continue watering from below.

It is possible to grow them from leaf cuttings as well, this works best with the older varieties.

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