How to Grow Garlic

A Complete Guide to Planting, Growing, Harvesting, Curing and Storing Garlic

Growing your own garlic is one of the most rewarding crops for the home vegetable garden. Freshly harvested garlic has a richer flavour than most store-bought bulbs, stores well for months and is easy to grow in many climate zones.

Garlic thrives in a sunny position with well-drained soil and, in many regions, benefits from a cold winter to produce large, flavoursome bulbs. Whether you’re planting a few cloves in the vegetable garden, growing garlic in raised beds or using containers on a patio, it’s a reliable crop that requires little maintenance once established.

Knowing when to plant, how to care for your crop and when to harvest are the keys to success. This guide covers everything you need to know, from choosing garlic bulbs and preparing the soil through to harvesting, curing and storing your crop for months of use in the kitchen.

Quick Facts

Botanical Name	Allium sativum
Common Name	Garlic
Plant Type	Bulb vegetable
Planting Time	Autumn to early winter
Harvest Time	Early summer
Position	Full sun
Soil	Rich, fertile, well-drained soil
Planting Depth	4–5 cm
Plant Spacing	10–15 cm apart
Growing Time	Around 6 months
Suitable for Pots	Yes
Difficulty	Easy

Suitable for Raised Beds: Excellent

Key Takeaways

• Plant garlic from autumn to early winter.
• Choose a sunny position with fertile, well-drained soil.
• Plant cloves 4–5 cm deep with the pointed end facing up.
• Keep plants weed-free and evenly watered while growing.
• Harvest when the lower leaves have turned brown and cure bulbs before storing.

Why Grow Your Own Garlic?

Garlic is one of the easiest and most rewarding vegetables to grow at home. It takes little space, requires only moderate care and produces bulbs with a flavour that’s difficult to match from supermarket garlic.

Home-grown garlic can be grown organically, harvested fresh when needed and stored for many months once properly cured. Growing your own also gives you access to a wider range of varieties, many with stronger flavour, larger bulbs or better storage qualities than those commonly available in shops.

In most areas of southern Australia, garlic grows exceptionally well. Cold winter temperatures help develop larger bulbs with a richer flavour, while a warm, sunny growing season encourages good growth and reliable harvests.

Garlic can be planted in traditional vegetable gardens, raised beds or containers, making it suitable for gardens of almost any size. Once you’ve grown your own, it’s hard to go back to buying garlic.

When to Plant Garlic

Garlic is best planted from autumn through to early winter. In most parts of Australia, planting between March and May gives the cloves time to establish a strong root system before the coldest weather arrives.

Garlic grows best where winters are cool to cold, as lower temperatures encourage the bulbs to divide into large, well-formed cloves. In warmer districts, choose varieties that are better suited to mild winters and plant as early as local conditions allow.

As a general guide:

• Cool and temperate climates: Plant from March to May.
• Cold districts: Plant in autumn before the ground becomes very cold.
• Warmer regions: Plant from late March into early May, choosing suitable softneck varieties where possible.

Garlic is usually ready to harvest around six months after planting, depending on the variety and seasonal conditions.

Best Climate for Growing Garlic

Garlic grows best in temperate and cool climate regions where it experiences a period of winter cold. Southern Australia, including Victoria, Tasmania, South Australia, southern New South Wales and the ACT, generally produces the largest, strongest flavoured bulbs. In warmer regions, choose varieties suited to mild winters and plant as early as local conditions allow.

Choosing Garlic

Starting with good quality planting stock is one of the easiest ways to grow healthy plants and produce large bulbs.

Seed Garlic

The best choice is certified seed garlic from specialist growers. These bulbs are grown specifically for planting and are generally free from pests and diseases. They also give you access to a wider range of varieties than those found in supermarkets.

Organic Garlic

Certified organic garlic is an excellent option for home gardeners. Once divided into individual cloves, each clove can be planted to produce a new bulb. Organic garlic is often untreated and establishes readily in the garden.

Farmers’ Market Garlic

Locally grown garlic purchased from a farmers’ market is often a good choice, especially if it has been grown in a climate similar to your own. Fresh local varieties are usually well adapted to Australian growing conditions.

Supermarket Garlic

Supermarket garlic will often grow successfully, provided it hasn’t been treated with growth inhibitors. Imported garlic is sometimes treated to prevent sprouting during storage, reducing its suitability for planting. If you’re unsure, locally grown garlic is usually the better choice.

Whatever type you choose, separate the bulb into individual cloves just before planting. Leave the papery skin intact and select the largest cloves, as these generally produce the biggest bulbs.

Hardneck or Softneck Garlic?

Garlic is generally divided into two main groups, each with its own advantages.

Feature	Hardneck Garlic	Softneck Garlic
Winter Requirement	Prefers cold winters	Better suited to milder climates
Bulb Size	Usually larger bulbs with fewer cloves	More cloves per bulb, generally smaller
Flavour	Strong, rich flavour	Milder flavour
Flower Stem (Scape)	Produces edible flower stems	Does not produce scapes
Storage	Moderate storage life	Excellent storage life
Best For	Cooler regions	Mild and warmer regions

Hardneck varieties are often preferred by home gardeners because of their excellent flavour and larger cloves. They also produce edible flower stems, known as scapes, which should be removed to encourage larger bulbs.

Softneck garlic stores for longer and is the type most commonly braided for storage. It performs particularly well where winters are milder.

Preparing the Soil

Good soil preparation is one of the secrets to growing excellent garlic. The bulbs develop beneath the soil surface, so they need loose, fertile soil that allows them to expand easily.

Choose a sunny position with well-drained soil. Garlic dislikes wet feet and performs poorly in heavy, waterlogged ground.

Before planting:

• Dig the soil to a depth of at least 25–30 cm.
• Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost to improve soil structure.
• Add aged cow manure or other well-rotted animal manure several weeks before planting.
• If needed, work a small amount of lime into the soil around four weeks before planting to help achieve a soil pH of approximately 6.0–7.5.
• Avoid fresh manure, as it can encourage excessive leaf growth at the expense of bulb development.

If your soil is heavy clay, consider growing garlic in raised beds where drainage can be improved more easily.

Garlic benefits from soil that has been well prepared in previous seasons, making it an excellent crop to follow vegetables that have already received generous applications of compost and manure.

How to Plant Garlic

Planting at a Glance

• Plant in autumn to early winter.
• Separate bulbs into cloves just before planting.
• Choose the largest cloves for the biggest bulbs.
• Plant with the pointed end facing up.
• Space cloves 10–15 cm apart and plant 4–5 cm deep.
• Mulch after planting and water well.

Garlic is grown from individual cloves rather than seed.

Separate the bulb into individual cloves just before planting, taking care not to damage the base of each clove. Leave the papery outer skin in place, as it helps protect the clove while it establishes.

Plant each clove with the pointed end facing upwards and the flat basal plate downwards.

Plant:

• 4–5 cm deep
• 10–15 cm apart
• 30–40 cm between rows if planting multiple rows

After planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil around the cloves.

Apply a layer of mulch such as straw, sugar cane mulch or lucerne around the plants to help conserve soil moisture, suppress weeds and maintain an even soil temperature throughout the growing season.

Keep the soil moist but never waterlogged while the plants establish. Once growing strongly, garlic requires only regular watering during dry periods, with watering reduced as harvest approaches to allow the bulbs to mature properly.

Secrets to Growing Bigger Garlic Bulbs

Every gardener wants to harvest large, firm garlic bulbs, and while the variety you choose is important, good growing practices make all the difference. Healthy soil, the right planting time and consistent care throughout the growing season will all help produce a better crop.

Here are our top tips for growing bigger garlic bulbs.

10 Tips for Growing Bigger Garlic

1. Prepare the Soil Well

Garlic grows best in a loose, fertile soil that is rich in organic matter and drains well. Dig the soil to at least 30 cm deep and incorporate plenty of compost or well-rotted manure before planting.

A sandy loam is ideal, allowing the bulbs to expand freely while still retaining enough moisture for steady growth.

2. Keep the Garlic Patch Weed Free

Garlic does not compete well with weeds. Weeds rob plants of moisture, nutrients and growing space, often resulting in smaller bulbs.

Regular weeding throughout the season is one of the easiest ways to improve bulb size.

3. Plant at the Right Time

In most parts of Australia, garlic is best planted from autumn to early winter. Early planting encourages strong root growth before winter and gives plants the longest possible growing season.

Cold winter temperatures also help many varieties produce larger, better-divided bulbs.

4. Give Plants Enough Space

Avoid overcrowding.

Plant cloves around 10–15 cm apart, with 30–40 cm between rows. Good spacing reduces competition between plants and allows each bulb to develop to its full size.

5. Plant at the Correct Depth

Plant cloves 4–5 cm deep, with the pointed end facing upwards.

Planting too deeply can slow growth, while cloves planted too shallowly may become exposed after heavy rain or frosts.

6. Feed at the Right Time

Garlic benefits from regular feeding while leaves are actively growing.

Apply a balanced fertiliser during the early stages of growth. Once bulbing begins—usually around eight weeks before harvest—stop using nitrogen-rich fertilisers.

Instead, apply sulphate of potash to encourage bulb development without promoting excessive leaf growth.

7. Plant the Largest Cloves

One of the simplest ways to grow larger bulbs is to plant the largest cloves from your best bulbs.

Save the biggest cloves for planting and use the smaller ones in the kitchen. Larger planting cloves almost always produce larger harvests.

8. Always Plant the Right Way Up

Plant cloves with the flat basal plate down and the pointed tip facing upwards.

Although cloves planted upside down may still grow, they usually produce weaker plants and smaller bulbs.

9. Choose the Right Variety

Different garlic varieties perform better in different climates.

Hardneck garlic generally produces larger cloves and stronger flavour in cooler districts, while softneck varieties perform better in milder regions and store for longer.

Choosing a variety suited to your local climate is one of the easiest ways to improve results.

10. Remove Garlic Scapes

If you’re growing hardneck garlic, remove the flower stems, known as scapes, as they begin to curl.

Removing the scapes directs the plant’s energy back into bulb development, resulting in larger bulbs at harvest.

As an added bonus, garlic scapes are edible and have a mild garlic flavour, making them excellent in stir-fries, pesto or salads.

Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers late in the season, as they encourage leaf growth rather than bulb development.

Extra Tips for Growing Bigger Garlic

A few extra practices can also make a noticeable difference.

• Break bulbs into individual cloves only when you’re ready to plant.
• Aim for a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.5.
• Mulch after planting to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.
• Water deeply during dry periods rather than applying frequent light watering.
• Renew mulch during spring to help keep the root zone cool.
• Avoid damaging the roots when weeding around plants.
• Rotate your garlic crop each year to help reduce the build-up of soil-borne diseases.

Growing large garlic bulbs isn’t about using more fertiliser—it’s about providing consistent growing conditions from planting through to harvest.

Removing Garlic Scapes

If you’re growing hardneck garlic, you’ll notice a flower stem begin to emerge in late spring. This stem, known as the scape, usually forms a distinctive loop before straightening as it matures.

Removing the scape is one of the easiest ways to increase bulb size. If left on the plant, the developing flower head uses energy that would otherwise go into producing a larger bulb.

The best time to remove the scape is when it has formed its first curl but before it begins to straighten.

Using secateurs or a sharp knife, cut the stem as low as practical without removing any leaves.

Don’t throw the scapes away—they’re delicious. Their mild garlic flavour makes them ideal for stir-fries, soups, pesto or simply grilled with a little olive oil.

Visit the garlic patch every week or so during spring, as scapes don’t always appear on every plant at the same time.

How to Grow Garlic The Organic Way

Garlic is one of the easiest vegetable crops to grow organically. It is naturally hardy, requires relatively few inputs and can produce excellent crops without relying on synthetic fertilisers or pesticides.

Start with certified organic planting garlic or healthy untreated bulbs from a reputable grower. Prepare the soil by incorporating plenty of compost and well-rotted manure several weeks before planting.

A small application of lime before planting can help achieve the slightly alkaline soil conditions that garlic prefers.

Feed the crop with organic fertilisers as the plants grow, keep weeds under control and maintain an even soil moisture with a layer of organic mulch.

One of the advantages of growing your own organic garlic is that you can save your best bulbs each season for replanting. Select the largest, healthiest bulbs, store them in a cool, dry place and divide them into cloves only when you’re ready to plant the following autumn.

Companion Planting

Garlic is an excellent companion plant in the vegetable garden. Its strong aroma is believed to help deter a range of insect pests, making it a useful addition alongside many vegetables and ornamental plants.

Garlic grows well with:

• Tomatoes
• Roses
• Lettuce
• Beetroot
• Carrots
• Fruit trees
• Strawberries

Avoid planting garlic close to peas and beans, as members of the onion family can inhibit their growth.

Like all members of the onion family, garlic benefits from crop rotation. Avoid planting it in the same position year after year, as this can encourage a build-up of soil-borne diseases.

Common Problems When Growing Garlic

Garlic is generally an easy crop to grow, but a few common problems can affect growth and bulb quality.

Yellow Leaves

Leaves naturally turn yellow as the bulbs mature and harvest time approaches.

If leaves yellow early in the season it may indicate poor drainage, nutrient deficiency or prolonged wet weather.

Rot

Garlic dislikes wet feet.

Poorly drained soils can lead to bulb or root rot, particularly during winter. Improve drainage by incorporating organic matter or grow garlic in raised beds if your soil remains wet.

Garlic Rust

Rust appears as orange or rusty coloured spots on the leaves.

Good air circulation, crop rotation and removing affected foliage will usually help minimise problems. Avoid overhead watering where possible.

Small Bulbs

Small bulbs are usually caused by one or more of the following:

• planting cloves that are too small
• poor soil preparation
• overcrowding
• heavy weed competition
• insufficient winter cold
• harvesting too early
• failing to remove scapes from hardneck varieties

Split Bulbs

Bulbs that split apart before harvest are usually left in the ground too long. Harvest as soon as the lower leaves have browned while the upper leaves are still green.

Poor Flavour

Garlic develops its best flavour after a long, cool growing season.

Warm winters, harvesting too early or poor storage conditions can all reduce flavour.

Harvesting Garlic

Knowing when to harvest is just as important as knowing how to grow garlic. Harvest too early and the bulbs will be undersized. Leave them in the ground too long and the cloves may begin to separate, reducing storage life.

Garlic is usually ready to harvest in early summer, although timing will vary with the variety, planting date and seasonal conditions.

Look for these signs:

• The lower half of the leaves have turned brown.
• The upper leaves are still green.
• The bulb feels firm and well developed.
• If you gently scrape away the soil, the cloves should be clearly defined beneath the outer skin.
• Avoid pulling bulbs by the foliage alone, as the stems can break away from the bulb.

Harvest on a dry day if possible.

In loose soil the bulbs can often be lifted by hand. If necessary, carefully loosen the soil with a garden fork, taking care not to bruise or damage the bulbs.

Gently brush away excess soil but leave the protective outer skins intact.

Curing Garlic

Curing is simply the process of drying garlic after harvest. Proper curing improves flavour, extends storage life and helps protect the bulbs from disease.

As soon as the garlic has been harvested, tie the stems into bunches of five or six plants and hang them in a cool, shaded position with good air circulation.

Smaller bunches allow better airflow and more even drying.

Garlic generally requires four to eight weeks to cure, depending on weather conditions and humidity.

The bulbs are ready when:

• the outer skins are dry and papery
• all foliage has turned brown
• the roots have dried completely

Avoid curing garlic in direct sunlight, as this can reduce storage quality.

Cleaning Garlic

Once curing is complete, the bulbs can be cleaned ready for storage.

Brush away any remaining soil and trim the roots with secateurs, leaving only a short stub.

Cut the stem approximately 2–3 cm above the bulb.

Set aside any damaged bulbs for immediate use, as they won’t store well.

Softneck garlic can also be left with longer stems and braided before storage if desired.

Storing Garlic

Correctly cured garlic stores remarkably well.

Keep bulbs in mesh bags, baskets or crates in a cool, dry position with good air circulation. A pantry, cellar or under-house storage area is ideal.

Avoid storing garlic in sealed plastic bags or in the refrigerator. Cold temperatures encourage sprouting once the bulbs are returned to room temperature.

Storage life varies between varieties. Many softneck types store for six months or longer, while some hardneck varieties are best used within three to five months.

Check stored garlic regularly and remove any bulbs that begin to soften or sprout.

Never wash garlic before storing, as excess moisture can encourage rot.

Saving Garlic for Next Season

One of the advantages of growing your own garlic is being able to save planting stock for the following year.

Choose the largest, healthiest bulbs from your harvest and set them aside before you begin using the crop in the kitchen.

Store these bulbs in a cool, dry place and don’t separate them into individual cloves until planting time in autumn.

As a general rule, large cloves produce large bulbs, so always select the biggest planting cloves for next season’s crop.

Quick How to Grow Garlic in Containers Video

Where to buy garlic bulbs